Surviving Phnom Penh

In Phnom Penh, anything goes. That is when you're on the road.

Because we only have two days here, we decided to rent bikes again and ride through the city to see more of the daily life. The traffic is like nothing I have seen. Almost got my left foot ran over by ruthless motorbikes twice yesterday. There is traffic coming and going from every direction. People do not obey traffic lights as a rule. It's chaos.

Walking along the busy street beside the river is mesmerizing. Makes you think of France, although you wouldn't see as many monks walking by, sun-darkened street children selling questionably-safe-to-drink bottled water, desperate tuk tuk drivers hollering at you from every corner. We've definitely seen a lot more fried bugs being sold as snacks than during the beginning of this trip.

Wendy has earned a new nickname. It's the Toilet Paper Burglar (sort of like the Hamburglar from McDonalds). Because we're staying in somewhat of a roach motel (it's really not that bad) and the bathroom never has toilet paper, she has resorted to stealing toilet paper everywhere we go. She'll get this look in her eyes as we eat dinner, finish up, go into the bathroom and come out with a whole roll in her bag. It's hilarious. Do they have support groups for that?

Anyway, we went to a place called Friends The Restaurant for dinner last night. Not your typical Kmer restaurant and they really just serve tapas as opposed to super traditional Cambodia cusine, but honestly, what a great concept for a food establishment. The staff consists of former street children that were taken in to be cared for, mentored, and educated and trained to become part of the Friends staff. Re-integration with their families and communities is this NGO's key objective. Good food, good cause, excellent service from the attentive staff. It's a win-win situation for everyone. Check it out if you're planning to go to Phnom Penh. (We went on a Saturday night and had to wait only 5-10 min. with no reservations.)

http://www.mithsamlanh.org/ventures.php?id=12&catid=3

We're meeting back up with Nate in Siem Reap tomorrow. Looking for a photography workshop and possible homestay in that region since my visa for Vietnam isn't valid until Dec. 11th. Wendy leaves for Phuo Quoc on the 2nd, so it's goodbye soon.

*Here are some of the photographs I took at the Killing Fields outside of Phnom Penh and at the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. Somber settings and reminders of the dark past Cambodians have had to endure...

Walk like Elephant

Wendy did good. Really good.

We ended up spending the last ten hours tending to individual elephants (Champu and Buchan) at Patara Elephant Farm about 30 min. from Chiang Mai. I cannot say enough positive things about Pat and his wife who run the farm and manage the breeding and health care of the 19 creatures that live there. To learn more about their mission and how they are accomplishing these goals, please please visit: http://www.pataraelephantfarm.com/

Not only will you walk away with a new found love and respect for these animals, you get a slice of education on Thai history, economics, and politics, as well as an understanding of why it would be wise to "walk like elephant, eat like elephant, and live like elephant." (For those who do not want to get their hands dirty, look elsewhere, as you will be inspecting elephant poo as part of the day's work...)

Was a great experience, and I'm grateful Wendy found a responsible organization that wants to do the right thing.

Chiang Mai

Due to her natural knack for planning, Wendy has officially taken charge of our daytime activities in Chiang Mai for the rest of this week. We went zip-lining for the first time through Flight of the Gibbons, and now that I have done it, I know I could zipline all day without getting sick of it. Laughing hysterically, Wendy and I zoomed through a lush green rainforest just an hour north of Chiang Mai (near Mae Kompong). We spent a few hours doing this alongside a really good-humored young pair of newlyweds on their honeymoon from Brisbane, a cute elderly couple from Melbourne, a girl from Holland, and another pair of sisters from Chicago and Phoenix. Because our guides, Mr. B and Chaiyo, were so laid back and kept cracking jokes the entire time, it was hard not to have a fantastic time.

This rainforest is privately-owned land, and the man that started Flight of the Gibbons is from New Zealand. Part of the guide was learning about the various tea trees that grow on the land and the hard work that goes into collecting honey from some of the trees by the forest inhabitants. It's a forest that seems very well maintained, and according to their website, Flight of the Gibbons supports ecological education programs and funds a re-planting program to preserve Thailand’s native trees. Approximately 10% of their profits go toward rainforest rehabilitation and protecting the rare Gibbon ape. If interested and in the region, check out their website: http://www.treetopasia.com/. Pretty sure they have a branch near Pattaya and Bangkok, as well.

Tomorrow morning, we're heading back to the jungle, but this time to ride elephants. I know, I know. It's touristy...ugh. But, I'm hoping the agency my sister booked is at least part of an organization that helps sustain safe and healthy environments for these creatures. That's being optimistic; we'll see what we find. Tomorrow night should be interesting. Going to a local hangout called The Writer's Club and Wine Bar. Apparently, it's popular with local writers and journalists, especially on Friday nights. It's somewhat of a press club, so I'm sure we'll meet some colorful people there.

Over the last few months, several friends have teased me about the detail going into my posts. The reason why I list and name in so much detail is because I know people are going to ask for recommendations on things to do, places to go, and things to eat when they come to visit this region. I only feel that it's my duty to document as much as I can while I am here. When I studied in Siena and Hong Kong during my junior year of college, I hardly wrote anything in my journal, let alone was able to recall some of the names of places I stayed and ate at when my friends asked me upon returning back to the states. It's a shame because sometimes your memories do fade and your mind will fail you. I hope to look back on this trip, maybe when I'm old and grey, and be able to pull up vivid images of the experiences I'm having now at 26. Actually, I hope to always be open to doing something new and different even when I'm walking with a cane.

A different Thailand

For those that have never been to Chiang Rai in northern Thailand, it's worth planning a trip as the city is so different from Bangkok and the islands of the south. It actually feels like a real town with quaint little neighborhoods and actual space to walk on the sidewalks. Lazy mornings spent grazing the city center's markets, young monks in vibrant tangerine robes walking to and from the temples, dragonflies and white butterflies flitting above the Mekong Delta, food huts standing on the side of dirt roads...this is the Thailand I've been waiting to see. (Funny thing is we have 5 different city maps and not one version seems to be accurate. Wendy decided today that we need to present the city with an edited consolidated version of their maps. I couldn't agree more.)

We arrived early yesterday evening and took it easy, finding a hole in the wall to grab dinner. Since nothing was in English and Chiang Rai does not seem to cater to many tourists, we just agreed on whatever our server mentioned. What we should have done, in retrospect, is ask for kow soi, the curry noodle dish/soup this region is known for. Lesson learned as we were served American-style Thai friend rice.

This morning, we rented mountain bikes from Fat Free Bikes (for 200 baht/person) and started the day by riding through the residential neighborhoods. What a beautifully old and historic town. The roads are fairly flat, and the ride was just what we were looking for. We waited for a herd of cows to cross the road, smiled at old wrinkly women wearing long sleeves and sweaters in 80 degree heat, greeted shop owners holding their toddlers with "Sawahdeekah," and tried not to get ourselves killed riding on the left side of the road. We also found Chiang Rai beach which actually sits on the side of the Mekong river and does not look like a beach at all. I was surprised to find that there were only three or four other people there on such a gorgeous day. It's always pleasant when you go somewhere in Thailand and find that it hasn't been overly developed or commercialized. Rare, but pleasant.

Tomorrow, after we return our bikes and find the best kow soi in Chiang Rai, we're getting back on the Green Bus and heading south to Chiang Mai to spend the rest of the week. Looking forward to spending more time outside breathing in the lush air and being active.

The food tour of Thailand continues...

This morning, Wendy and I woke up early to go to our Thai cooking class. Originally, Nate was to join us, however, when one goes out the previous night and meets a group of local university students who praise you if you can pound a full cup of Singha and challenge you to drinking "towers," one might not feel well the next morning. Especially since one of the young students we befriended, Jay, took us dancing afterwards at RCA district and to Sukhumvit's Soi 38 where we all consumed the most delicious dishes of chicken and rice and bowls of bbq pork noodle soups at 3 in the morning. I had Jay ask the vendor if he could give me a little of the spicy gravy to take with me and he ended up giving me a bagful that I now do not know what to do with. Are you allowed to take a bag of gravy through customs at the Bangkok airport? Guess we'll find out tomorrow when we leave for Chiang Mai.

Our worldly young instructor met us at a skytrain station and we proceeded to pick up 5 other students, all of whom were from Austrailia, UK, and the States. He walked us over to a produce/meat/fish market in the Silom district and educated us about all of the ingredients we would be using today. We spent time sniffing and eying everything as he threw various bunches of leaves, handfuls of mushrooms, bags of colorful dried chilis into our weaved baskets. Then we walked over to where I assume he might live and were welcomed into a studio where small wooden tables were set up, along with a small prep area in the back and individual stove stations stood on the open air balcony. The class required us to clean and prep the fresh vegetables, grind the ingredients for curry paste, and actually cook (and eat immediately upon completion of each dish) 5 different dishes. They were: Chicken Galangal Coconut Soup (Tom Kha Gai), Chicken with Cashew Nut (Gai Phad Med Ma Muang), Spicy Mungbean Noodle Salad (Yam Woon Sen), Red Curry Chicken (Kaeng Phet Gai), and Fried Fish Cakes (Thod Mun Pla). After the first two entrees, Wendy and I were hitting a slump. Not only were we already full from the food, but I think lack of sleep from the previous night was catching up to us. Overall, each dish turned out incredibly flavorful and was a reminder that it just takes fresh and quality produce/ingredients to make a simple meal mindblowing.

Our instructor leads a pretty rough life. He works just a few hours (9am-1pm) during each weekday instructing anywhere from 3-14 people (all paying approx. 1000 baht per lesson), meets people from all over the world who sign up to take his courses and are there wanting to learn, and travels every summer for three months out of the year. Wendy and I did the math after we left his apartment and decided that he is doing really well for a Thai native. Not too shabby.

What was great was that he was a very engaging instructor, and it was a very interactive lesson in traditional Thai cooking. I felt like we definitely picked a great cooking course taught by an instructor who has a lot of knowledge to share, whose not afraid to throw in sarcastic jokes at your expense, and genuinely enjoys what he does for a living. Out of 5 stars, I give it a 4.
Hope Nate goes later this week since he's staying here for a while.

And who says Three's a Crowd?

As I am now in the (good) company of my sister and friend, I find that I have less time to write.

We're currently (back) in Bangkok - arrived on Thursday. On the first day that Wendy arrived, we were able to check out Wat Po and get Thai traditional massages at the Massage School within the temple grounds. I had a crick in my neck from sleeping on the Lomprayah bus the previous night and thought the massage woould do wonders. Wow. Have you ever gotten a traditional Thai massage? They are no joke. The way your pressure points are kneaded like raw dough...let's just say it was not like the oil massage I fell asleep during in Koh Tao. It was a very cool experience, albeit the pain. You take a number as you walk in and wait to be called into a room full of people (mostly tourists) who are contorted into various yogic positions. My new friend, Wow, whom we met up for dinner last night said it the best, " It's like yoga for lazy people."

That same night, we were able to catch the Thursday night Muay Thai line up at the Ratchadamnoen Boxing stadium. We decided on mid-range seats that cost 1500 baht/person (less than $50). Even the most economical tickets were surprisingly expensive at 1000 baht, especially if you're on a Thai payroll. The first match started at 6:30pm and the 10th, or last, match ended after 10. You can buy snacks and beer (a bit overpriced) once inside, but the array of street food vendors right outside the stadium was spectacular. There's also an outdoor covered patio where you can grab seats and a table to enjoy your meal, as well.

The matches were pretty entertaining. The youngest boys looked about the age of 15 or 16, and they were in incredible shape. Whatever their daily diet or rigorous training regime, I plan to follow (or at least attempt to follow) once back in SF. We'll see how that goes...

I took a good number of pictures of the first few boxing matches, but since it takes such a long time to post, I think I'll save that for another time. The hostel we are staying at Suk11 in Sukhumvit (which I highly recommend!) has only one downfall. Their internet service is dependent on this little machine that you insert 10 baht coins into, and it controls your access. I find it not as convenient as just paying the front desk for however many minutes you're online. Oh well. Every other feature this hostel offers is pretty great, so I'm not going to complain.

Tonight, the three of us are heading to the different beer gardens at Central World near Siam Square. According to Wow, and evidence we witnessed walking by last night, during the winter months when the heat is actually bearable, outdoor beer gardens are set up featuring Chang, Singha, Tiger, and a few other German beers. There are live bands playing Thai as well as international cover music playing at each station, and you are encouraged to order "towers" of beer, accompanied by small Thai dishes throughout the night. It looked like a great time from what we saw, so we are definitely looking forward to checking it out tonight.

Running out of time, but I will be posting up pictures of Bangkok soon, hopefully before we leave for Chiang Mai on Monday morning.

Anthony Bourdain would have been proud

After my second session of Muay Thai yesterday, Bang, the trainer I've been working with, invited me over for dinner at the gym. Apparently he and the other trainers eat and sleep there, calling it their home. Of course, I accepted and agreed to meet them later that night. Not knowing what to expect, I brought along a handful of Chang and Singha beers and showed up promptly at 7:30. In the middle of the training mat we had just trained on earlier that day, there was a small bamboo mat, and Jimmy, Samat, and Bang were running around bringing a number of fragrant, colorful dishes out from the kitchen and setting them onto the mat. The front desk receptionist and another elderly man both joined us on the mat as we sat cross-legged for the family style meal, and I swear, it was straight out of a No Reservations episode.

Before Choam (the receptionist) and I started scooping rice onto the men's plates, a black wasp about the size of my thumb flew straight into my head and got stuck in my hair. Not wanting to cause a scene, I tried to brush it off with my hand. Bang decided to take matters into his own hands (literally) and grabbed it and threw it across the courtyard. It never bothered me again.
We proceeded to dig into the 7 traditional dishes Bang prepared all by himself. I asked him how long it took him to cook everything, and astonishingly, he replied "half hour." Over the course of an hour, we ate: a dish of beef in yellow curry, bittermelon and vegetables in red curry, minced pork with fried holy basil, garlic, and chilies (my new favorite), a fried whole fish, soup with melon and chicken similar to one my mom makes, spicy garlic and pepper fish, and an egg omelet. No surprise, but it was by far the best Thai meal I've ever had. Although my hosts spoke minimal English and my command of Thai is pathetic, I'm pretty sure they knew how much I enjoyed the meal seeing that I finished the entire heap of food on my plate. What surprised me, though, was the fact that they throw out leftovers instead of keeping it for the next day. I tried to say that it seemed like such a waste, but my Thai-English dictionary failed me, and I had to use hand gestures to try to discourage them from throwing away the food. They laughed and said, "Tomorrow buy again." For people who are not making a lot money, they sure were okay with throwing away good food. It was really hard for me to understand.

After dinner, Jimmy, Samat, and Bang wanted to play poker, so I sat with my beer and observed. Watching them play a version I'd never seen before, I had a hard time making sense of the game no matter how intently I watched and followed their motions. They played for another hour before we decided to head down to Chalok Baan Kao to check out what Bang called a "free hill concert by Esan people." We hopped on their motorbikes and rode up to what would have been considered a carnival or a fair in the States. It seemed like the entire population of Koh Tao was at this fair, minus any tourists or foreigners. There was a group performing and dancers on the stage, but the guys wanted to go straight to the games section of the fairground. That's when I realized that Thai men are gamblers. Bang refused to leave the table where he was spending thousands and thousands of baht. After an hour, he had us hold his spot so he could run to the ATM for more money. From what I could tell, the game he was playing was no different from a Roulette table in Vegas. I was shocked at how nonchalantly he was willing to drop his week's earnings on what I consider a game of luck. As much as I wanted to discourage him, I knew he was a grown man (31, actually), and it was up to him on how he wanted to spend his money. After a little while longer, I knew it was time for me to go, so I asked Jimmy's friend to take me back to Sairee Village. They probably thought I was square for turning in early, but really, I just didn't want to spend any more money losing on these games and was in a serious food coma from the feast.

At the end of the day, I'm glad I accepted Bang's invitation to hang out with him and his "family." I'm grateful that they accepted me, a stranger, into their home for dinner and am so appreciative of the effort they made to make sure I was comfortable and entertained throughout the night. I just wish I spoke Thai so that I could fully express the gratitude I feel, but I guess I'll just have to count on the faith that they already know. I plan on bringing Nate into the gym to introduce him to the guys once he arrives in Koh Tao, as I'm positive he'll want to do some training during his time here. Until then, I'm going to try and score those recipes from Bang so I can give the dishes a try in my own kitchen at home.

Very excited that Nate, one of my closest friends in SF, is landing in Bangkok tomorrow. I'm really looking forward to being in good company, as I know Nate is going to be just that. Willing to try new things, having an open mind, and providing an endless source of entertainment - it's hard for me to think of a better wing man. I think he is going to get a lot out of his experience here in southeast Asia.

Until Nate arrives, I'm going to continue enjoying my time here. Walked over to Island Muay Thai and took a personal training session yesterday and absolutely loved it. What a workout. I felt so much more exhilarated after that 1.5 hr session than I have in weeks! The training was done entirely outdoors in 85+ degree heat with high humidity. My trainer's name was Bang, and just from observation, I think he is in his early 30s. I could tell that there were times when he wanted to laugh at me, but was trying to be polite and hold back. My punches and side kicks seemed decent, but the front kicks were tricky. I was so afraid that my foot would slip and accidentally kick him in the crotch, which it did a few times. We'll be working on that tonight when I go in for round 2. Tonight's lesson will include the side face and elbow hits, uppercuts, and knee kicks. Can't wait.

I was out eating dinner the other night and came up with this list. If you have more to add, please feel free to post. I'm sure there's a lot I left out, but these seem to help me...

The Official Guide to Combating Loneliness When Traveling Solo:

1) Go to the most popular bar and sip on a strong drink while you watch the sunset.
2) Be friendly to your bartender.
3) Be thankful that you can walk, run, and breathe. You're alive!
4) Go somewhere where the music is good.
5) Try to do something new every day.
6) See how many activities you can participate in without having to pay a dime.
7) Write. Even if it's to yourself.
8) Laugh out loud when you run into a problem.
9) Smile at the person sitting next to you.
10) Be grateful that you aren't dealing with a partner you are fighting or arguing with. (Surprisingly, I've seen way too many of those here on Koh Tao.)
11) Enjoy the silence.
12) Bring along a book you won't want to put down.
13) Go outside and look at the stars.
14) Find out where you can dance.
15) Try to count how many different countries are being represented by fellow diners.
16) Make a beeline for the door if it's all couples.
17) Play nice with others.
18) Ask other travelers where they recommend you go next.

Also, I did end up volunteering at the nursery school for a few days this past week. Had to call Aaron because I completely forgot the rules to Heads Up 7-Up and was trying to teach a group of 40 three-year olds who speak Thai, Burmese, and Lao. Needless to say, it was a failed mission, and the kids just looked up at me very confused. As an alternative, Ms. Lei made me stand in the middle of a circle and sing Old McDonald, Twinkle Twinkle Little Star, and The Wheels on the Bus. (Dad, you would have been so proud - I tried to teach them the song from The Sound of Music ~ "Doe, a deer, a female deer. Ray, a drop of golden sun. Me, a name I call myself. Far, a long long way to run. Sew, a needle pulling thread...." It's too bad that they weren't familiar with the movie at all. I thought The Sound of Music was an international hit, no?) Anyway, what I did learn was Chevron's probable motive for donating so much money to the primary school. Apparently, the company made a public presentation of the results of their initial environmental impact study for oil exploration about 65 km. off the coast of Koh Tao. The project is referred to as G4/50 and calls for 12 sites to be explored for existence of hydrocarbon. Most of the local audience they presented to were vehemently opposed to Chevron's plans.

This reminded me of my four years in Santa Barbara, where oil rigs filled the horizon off the coast where we lived. I remember walking along the beach below the street of DP and having to scratch the black tar off of my feet every time we got out of the water. What should have been a pleasant stroll became a reminder of the sacrifices we make to keep up with globalisation and its endless demands. I hope that Koh Tao can retain most of it's natural beauty and small town charm for much longer, although looking at the way the other islands (Koh Samui, Ko Phi Phi, etc.) have further developed into commercial money-makers, it might be just a couple of years before it becomes just like one of the others.

Peter Pans don't just live in San Francisco

Last night, I watched The Beach for the first time on (where else) the beach. Backpackers in search of this pristine island that happens to be a natural dope growing oasis, threatening dangers they failed to foresee. Everyone trying to find something no one else knows about. Trying to discover the unknown, untouched, unseen. Isn't that what we are all trying to pursue? Finding Eden? Even if we know we will always want more.

I think it may come down to wanting to delay the inevitable: growing up. In The Beach, the main character (Richard) goes to Thailand and feels the need to prove something to himself, and most likely, to others. He walks through his time there as if it's a game to be won. He is ultimately trying to escape everything that is familiar and safe. Sometimes, we need to open our eyes and just grow up. Running away because we want to stay Peter Pan in NeverNeverland is only going to bring about temporary satisfaction. Even Joe Cummings, one of the original Thailand area specialists for Lonely Planet starts to get weary from his travels. For a guy who spends 6 months hopping from one city to another (and the rest of the 6 months writing about it), you would think he'd be estactic to lead a very challenging, fast-paced life. While he is able to appreciate what he does for a living, it does get mundane after a while. Living out of your backpack, sleeping in a different bed every night, the loneliness that can overwhelm you - it's tough work and is probably not as glamorous as one might think.

I can understand if every once in a while, you do something to shake things up. That's what allows you to appreciate both everyday life at home and the exotic of getting out and going somewhere you haven't been before. When I find what I love to do, my hope is that I will not feel the need to get away, but be able to take a break and truly enjoy it for what it is - a break

Ok, enough about movie nights on Koh Tao. My notebook has become my best friend. I rarely go anywhere without it and feel lost when I do forget to put it in my bag. These blog posts stem from the jumbled notes I furiously scribble while people-watching, eating breakfast, or watching the sunset with a frosty Singha in my hand. Writing these accounts and knowing that you are reading some of my most personal thoughts and opinions has been liberating, to say the least. For some of you, it might feel like you are now just getting to know me, even if we have been friends for a decade (or more). I am able to write freely and say things I might not actually share with you in person. I hope I haven't offended anyone (and if so, sorry, you'll just have to deal) and I really do hope I haven't been the voice of a Debbie Downer. If there are points you disagree with me on, I would like nothing more but to hear from you when I'm back in SF. I'm not trying to use this blog as some sort of soap box, but I wouldn't be surprised if there are people reading who find that it might seem that way. Overall, I am happy to share these experiences and personal epiphanies as they come along. Traveling alone for this portion of the trip has made for some lonely moments, but being able to share on this blog has provided me with a sense of consistency I am missing from home.

I hope you are well wherever you are reading this from. Thank you for listening.

.

Meeting your neighbors

Yesterday morning, I met with a man named Khun Dusit, whom I spoke with briefly on the phone Monday night. Khun serves on the Mae Haad Primary School Committee and helps delegate opportunities for volunteers throughout the nursery and elementary school here on the island. The school is located next to Wat Koh Tao (the temple) and educates approximately 110 elementary-aged children, along with supervising 80 preschoolers. Talking with Khun, I found that he was born on the island, went to primary school in Koh Samui, completed his university degree in Bangkok, and worked in the large capital for years before coming back to Koh Tao to care for his parents and work for the school. He spoke excellent English and carried the demeanor of a kind uncle.

He gave a brief tour of the school grounds and walked me over to introduce me to one of the nursery school teachers, Ms. Lei. Khun explained who I was and why I was standing before her. Over the next two minutes, they proceeded to speak in Thai, nodded their heads, gave me a final look-over, smiled, and agreed on something. With a huge grin, he turned to me and said, "Ok. You come tomorrow morning at 9 and join this classroom for the day." I asked, "What will I be doing?" "Playing with the kids." he replied. Ah, of course. Although I love children and definitely would not mind spending a few hours entertaining them, I was hoping I'd get the chance to be involved in teaching them some skills or something that might have a more lasting effect. Oh well. Maybe this will lead to other duties. Who knows? This is no time to be picky.

So, I thanked them both and said I would see them Wednesday morning. On the way out, Khun pointed out a distracting construction site behind the classrooms and courtyard. He said it was something Chevron was funding, a 1.5 million THB or USD (?) project to improve the school. I didn't quite catch what it was exactly, but I am curious and plan to further investigate. I'd like to know how this is going to benefit Chevron, outside of helping to build their philanthropic reputation.

With nothing else planned for the day, I walked towards the Mae Haad Pier where all of the ferries unload passengers from the other islands and mainland. Walking down the main drag, I noticed a small dress shop that looked like it was closed and hadn't seen a visitor in months. I was surprised because this shop looked nothing like the hundreds of others I'd seen over the last week and a half. (Wow, I've been here for too long.) The others all sell brightly colored sarongs, bikinis that probably won't last you more than 5 swims, and overpriced "island" fashions that you most likely will not wear once you get home. No, this place was different. From the window displays, (from what I could tell), I would actually wear a lot of what they had back in SF. That's when I noticed a girl who was probably a few years older than me or around my age was sitting on the steps by the front door. As I came up the steps and opened the door, she followed me into the store and said, "I thought you Thai. Where you from?" (It's funny - it usually takes me a few minutes to explain to people here where I was born and where I am coming from. I feel like I have to tell my life story before the introduction is complete.) We started talking, and I found myself more interested in getting to know her than in looking at the dresses. I was almost forcing myself to comb through the racks, not paying attention to anything except what she had to say.

I learned that Na is originally from a smaller village outside of Pattaya, but has worked at D-Da Shop and lived on Koh Tao for about a year. She thinks this island is too small and that it's nothing more of an eye sore if you aren't in the water and diving through coral reefs or lounging on the white sand beaches. We talked a little more about the neighboring islands, what people usually do here, and complained about the lack of good Thai places on KT. After our conversation, I promised her I would come back to actually buy something before leaving (that's if/when my card comes and I can spend more freely). She stopped me as I was leaving and said, "Next time you come, we go to eat at my favorite place. Thai food. Very close. Not expensive, and most important, clean." I agreed and couldn't help but smile as I walked out. My first local friend.

These are the types of meetings that truly make me happy. Connections you make with others albeit language and cultural barriers. It's reassuring that most of us, regardless of race, ethnicity, religion, just want to understand each other and our differences.

Until next time: Go outside and meet someone. You have nothing to lose...

Eye candy

It's fair to say that Koh Tao can be compared to Catalina Island on spring break. Walking around Sairee Village, you can hear M.I.A., Kid Cudi, and Wyclef simultaneously bumping out of bars with misspelled names. Most of the restaurant and hospitality staff on the island are Burmese or Lao refugees. On the first day we arrived, my friend sat down at one of the cafe tables inside the Big Blue Dive Resort (I wouldn't call it an actual resort, since a night in one of their bungalows only costs $7 USD) and asked the server (in Thai) whether she spoke Thai. She mumbled something, went into the kitchen, and came back out with a ball of raw dough in her hand saying, "This is what we make our pizza with." It was actually quite funny.

The island caters to backpackers looking to dive during the day and drink questionable concoctions of Thai whiskey, Red Bull, and Coke out of plastic white buckets at night. I have yet to drink out of a bucket (ironically my first was in a Seattle karaoke bar this summer), but have gone out a few nights hanging out with people from England, Germany, Italy, Canada, and Thailand. I am positive this place is being further developed under the assumption that backpackers want food from their own countries (would explain the restaurants called El Gringo, Portobello, Shalimar, and another at Bans Resort that has an uncanny resemblance to TGI Fridays in the States) and desire to have every amenity available to them, even if it means sacrificing a real Thai experience. 7-Elevens are abundant and sell everything you can think of; they even mail your postcards. Internet cafes charge 1 Baht per minute (that's less than a cent a minute) and you can do your laundry for 40 Baht per kilo. I can see why some people might end up staying here, but I think I would get island fever after a few weeks and want to get back to reality.

Currently, I'm reading a borrowed book titled Travelers' Tales - Thailand. It's an anthology of stories and experiences written by individuals who have traveled through this country as a visitor. It's amazing how each tale reflects things I am learning about everyday life in Thailand. The themes I find most prominent and affective focus around the Thai ability to "keep a cool heart," the need to utilize land and water with respect, and the importance of being true to oneself. Aspects of Buddhism seem to resonate in everything I see and hear. I find myself wanting to live more purely and simply, only having been here for a little over a week. It's always hard when you return home from a trip like this and you try to incorporate what you've learned abroad into your normal daily life. Sometimes, it seems like things just don't apply - no matter how hard you try. I hope I'm able to take some things away with me that I can implement and share with others.

I'm conflicted about where I want to go next. Do I want to take the risk of trying to find a place that will be harder for me to get to but reap the reward of discovering a local culture and custom that I'm not reading about in my Lonely Planet? Or should I at least pay homage to the places that I know people will be disappointed if they knew I came to Thailand and did not visit? I actually don't have much interest in visiting Koh Samui, Koh Phi Phi, Phuket, among the other jewels of Thailand's southwestern coastline. I feel like I've gotten enough reading done on the beach here at Koh Tao. When I first drew an outline of this trip, places like Krabi and Koh Lanta were on my itinerary, but I find myself more and more turned off by tourist attractions and an endless number of dread-locked Europeans sunbathing. I could get that anywhere, really.

I've been reading more about Hat Yai and Songkhla, the Muslim communities of which Thais call the Deep South. Apparently, I can take a ferry from Koh Tao to Surat Thani, and then catch a bus to Songkhla. Total trip should take about less than 7-8 hours. Although, considering the transportation system here (unpredictable delays and cancellations), you never know. Hat Yai and Songkhla both hold official bullfights (bull vs. bull, not bull vs. human) during different times of the year that neither many foreigners know about nor attend. If I can secure a way of getting there safely and accommodations for a few nights, that just may be my next destination. Don't get me wrong, I don't support animal cruelty nor am I an avid animal rights activist, but because this is a part of southern Thai culture, I would like to witness this for myself and make my own judgments. In addition to that, the origins of Songkhla go back to a number of Guandong immigrants (Guandong being my ancestral province) who settled there and helped develop the city into what it is today. I'd like to see how much of that influence has remained and learn more about the religious history (and conflict) of the region.

Ok, now for some visuals. Here are pictures from my hotel room in Bangkok, the pier at Chumphon (departing for Koh Tao), the Big Blue Dive Resort, the children's pageant during the annual Loi Krathong Festival (I absolutely fell in love with the little girl in pink and could not bring myself to stop taking photos of her), studying for my dive exam at breakfast, and hanging out with my dive class (and their plus ones). Please forgive me, as the quality of the photos are not great (especially at the pageant since I was holding the camera above eye level and shuffling among the locals trying to get front row standing space).

Finding Nemo

I'm starting to think that the purpose of this trip is facing my fears. Un-beknownst to you all, I made a pact with myself on the 2nd day of my stay here in Koh Tao NOT to blog until I received an Open Water scuba diving certification. This morning, I completed my 4th dive and got my certification. (You may applause now.)

If you know me well, you probably know that I've always had a massive fear of deep bodies of water. This isn't something I've ever been particularly willing to share, but if you've been with me in a lake or an ocean, I'm sure you've seen me panic if I can't swim to a nearby shore quickly. (I'm fine getting from one end to another, but treading water is definitely not a strength for me.) Wednesday was the first day of dives with the rest of my group led by our Open Water instructor, a Swedish Paul Walker look-alike (Ladies. I kid you not, it was a bit distracting). We had already sat through multiple Knowledge Reviews, Quizzes, Videos, and a Final Exam during the first few days of this week. When we finally went down on the first dive, another young lady from London and I had trouble equalizing our ears on the descent and staying at the bottom comfortably, so we both came up and rested while the group finished being tested on their skills for Dive 1 & 2. I thought, okay, today's weather conditions weren't magnificent, and that's probably why I was so nervous down there. I'll give it another try when the weather gets better. (Keep in mind, the monsoon season has officially started, and it's been pouring on and off every other day this week.)

Well, the group finished Dives 3 & 4 by Thursday night, and Victoria and I decided to watch their video with them. I felt so disappointed in myself for not finishing with the rest of my group because that video of their last dive was spectacular. I made a final decision and said to myself that I would not leave this island until I went back down again and finished the entire course. So, I did. It was just me and my instructor, Erik, yesterday and I did fine on every skill except the mask flooding. For some reason, I am so reliant on my mask, even if I know that I am breathing only with my regulator and don't necessarily need the mask for anything except to focus underwater. Anyway, Erik put off that skill for me to complete today, and even though I had a difficult time with it, I finally got it down and scored well on all the skills by the end of Dive 4. It felt so good to know that I didn't allow myself to give up. Being underwater at 15m is like being in another world. I felt like we were exploring another planet; it was incredibly humbling. (Also, Liana, if you are reading, we saw a few clownfish in anenome and I immediately thought of you and the Tank.) In the end, I feel extremely proud of myself and am looking forward to doing more dives with friends, possibly in Indonesia next month. Start looking for flights if you care to join me....

On land, I'm still waiting for my debit card to arrive. Might take another week or so. Since it would be a pain to go somewhere else and have to come back in a week or a few days just to pick up the card, I might as well stick around and find something to preoccupy my time. There's actually a Muay Thai boxing gym down the road where I might look into grabbing a few lessons over the next few days. If not that, there is also a temple and school down the street where I could possibly volunteer until I need to depart for another city. Ideally, I would venture down to Songkhla (a mostly Muslim community) where the architecture and cuisine is a fusion of Thai, Muslim, and Chinese. I haven't heard much about the city and am not 100% positive that it's safe from political unrest, but if I could get down there easily, I bet I could find an interesting story and talk to some of the residents about nearby Hat Yai (a place which Lonely Planet Thailand warns readers NOT to go to, for safety precautions). Mom and Dad, if you are reading this - don't worry, I will do much more research and try to get more information on this place before I head down there. After that, Krabi and Ko Lanta might be a good stop to check out the limestone rock climbing @ Railay. Then it's back to Bangkok on the 19th to meet up with my sister, Wendy. Very excited to share this experience with her, as I only see her about twice a year if I'm lucky. From Bangkok, we'll make our way up north to Chiang Mai and also spend a few days in Chiang Rai. There are supposed to be some amazing hillside trails for biking, so we'll get that figured out once we are in the region.

I keep saying I'm going to post pictures, but I think I'll do that all at once further down the road. I'm actually journaling a lot more than I'm taking photographs (unfortunately), but I think it's because the pictures I would be taking here would look like the ones everyone else is taking, or would look like the photos you see in guidebooks. I guess I am just waiting to be inspired by something or someone. That's one of the main reasons why I want to explore more cities that not a lot of foreigners go to. It's been hard to find, since most of the places I've heard about have become havens for most tourists, I think I need to befriend more locals. That will be my next mission over the weekend. Done and Done.

Sawadeekah....

3 posts in the span of 24 hrs....

So, a semi-wise person once advised me NOT to sit in front of the computer all day while traveling. I can't help it. Sometimes, there is so much going on during the span of just a few hours or one day, I feel the need to document or else the moment is fleeting and forgotten. (Don't worry, I'm still out and enjoying the hustle and bustle of Bangkok. Just need a short break to gather my thoughts and rest my feet.)

During my first night in Bangkok, my friend Tan introduced me an individual she met in her MBA program and became friends with (this is the same person whom I had a memorable conversation with about Thai politics). Well, we stayed in touch via phone and text yesterday and decided on meeting up for lunch this afternoon. After talking about the three weeks he spent in October training in monk-hood and giving me a personal lesson in Buddhism, he actually decided that he was going to join me for the Open Water scuba course starting tomorrow in Koh Tao. Talk about spontaneous. This isn't your normal easy every day kind of trek. We're supposed to take an overnight bus to Chumphon and then take a ferry to get to Koh Tao. The course lasts three and a half days and consists of full days of instruction, tests, and open water dives. This was going to be a commitment. I'm not sure if this is common nature of Thai people, but I have found most to be fairly flexible and open-minded.

Not to jump around on topics, but I'd like to touch back onto Buddhism. Since I was a young child (before moving to the States), I could recall holding my grandmother's hand and walking into various temples with her in Hong Kong. I distinctly remember the thick smells of burning incense sticks and elderly Chinese people (you know, the usual suspects: moth balls, tiger balm, Chinese medicine, etc.). At that time, I did not know much about the religion, its history, nor why my grandmother was so adamant about frequenting these temples and paying her respect. I just knew that she strictly practiced, would obediently bow to the golden figures, close her eyes, and her mouth would move, but I was not able to hear any words come out of it. My grandmother is not the most logical, rational woman I've ever met (not even close), yet I have always been fascinated by the intensity in which she believes in the afterlife, in karma, and in the merits of your present life and how your actions will lead to certain consequences. Having been raised Catholic, I really didn't have the opportunity to explore Buddhism in a small town of 9,000 in central California. After talking with my new friend today over lunch, I have peaked a newfound interest in the art of meditation and how it might be beneficial to my health and state of mind. Now if I could only find a place in San Francisco where I can easily drown out the noise of sirens and passing cars, not in my bedroom that's for sure.